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Thread: Collector link pipe Mod

  1. #21
    Baby Twin cranked's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    56
    Real nice work

  2. #22
    Sensei
    Guest
    Abit of a heads up for all that are thinking of this mod , Firstly make sure you use the correct grade Stainless Steel tubing or it will crack !! 304 grade is the one to use as I have , second the link pipe shouldn't have to much misalinement or big gaps apart from helping welding it will save's it stressing from the heat , Agron gas purge theinside of the header while welding is a MUST or the weld will oxidise & crack very quickly . If you have a pusle High Feq tig unit then use this function as it keeps alot more heat away from the weld area . I used a 1-1/4 pipe with a wall thickness of 1.2mm

  3. #23
    aPeMunky
    Guest
    im also interested especially as you only live 20 mins from me
    ive got a 2002 rsvr, please keep me updated
    would love to know prices etc when you are ready to go ahead
    it would be great if i could ride up and get it done in a day
    we could even get before & after dyno runs done at HM racing in green st green if we organised it well.

    for those that are interested i waded through mr rats prolific posting to find the original discussion on this subject, some good info there and other links

    http://www.rsvzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8675

    mhp already do this mod, the welding looks beautiful,
    here are some details that another forum member received from mhp:


    I can re-work the original pipework, it consists of two modificatios.

    Mod 1-
    The loop underneath, between the two downpipes.
    This will restore the midrange powerloss at 5,000rpm, that has been caused by use of non-original silencer.
    Cost £80.

    Mod 2-
    The balance pipe of the rear downpipe to exit pipe.
    This is designed to spread the width of power at the top end.
    Designed for race track use, well thatís the main benefit.
    Cost £90


    There will be an extra charge of £15 for dirty pipework.

    Return postage via DHL, £16

    Hope that answers most of your questions.
    Regards Mark Hill




    sounds like mod 1 will be the most useful for road

    mod 2 will be more useful on track although i read in a post from 'cheesy' that 70mm bore tail pipes were originally used when this mod was done for racing rather than the usual 60mm pipes i guess most of us use.
    This would reduce power gains a little at the top end.

    sounds like a worthwhile mod

  4. #24
    redratbike
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by aPeMunky View Post
    im also interested especially as you only live 20 mins from me
    ive got a 2002 rsvr, please keep me updated
    would love to know prices etc when you are ready to go ahead
    it would be great if i could ride up and get it done in a day
    we could even get before & after dyno runs done at HM racing in green st green if we organised it well.

    for those that are interested i waded through mr rats prolific posting to find the original discussion on this subject, some good info there and other links

    http://www.rsvzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8675

    mhp already do this mod, the welding looks beautiful,
    here are some details that another forum member received from mhp:


    I can re-work the original pipework, it consists of two modificatios.

    Mod 1-
    The loop underneath, between the two downpipes.
    This will restore the midrange powerloss at 5,000rpm, that has been caused by use of non-original silencer.
    Cost £80.

    Mod 2-
    The balance pipe of the rear downpipe to exit pipe.
    This is designed to spread the width of power at the top end.
    Designed for race track use, well thatís the main benefit.
    Cost £90


    There will be an extra charge of £15 for dirty pipework.

    Return postage via DHL, £16

    Hope that answers most of your questions.
    Regards Mark Hill




    sounds like mod 1 will be the most useful for road

    mod 2 will be more useful on track although i read in a post from 'cheesy' that 70mm bore tail pipes were originally used when this mod was done for racing rather than the usual 60mm pipes i guess most of us use.
    This would reduce power gains a little at the top end.

    sounds like a worthwhile mod
    Yep, i think we could work something out regarding the header swap would be good to get back to back comparisions...theres even more info on the AF1 website...with dyno results i'm sure

  5. #25
    aPeMunky
    Guest
    yep i've had a good nosy around there
    there is the odd dyno chart but it is mixed in with other mods so it's hard to get a before 'n' after comparison, but the gains looked good and filled the 5000rpm dip.

    with forums it's often difficult to get specific answers to questions, i've been reading loads of posts and get contradicting information but the general jist is that the front pipe makes most difference although the 2nd rear pipe adds to the improvement

    i asked on AF1 about the 2nd pipe and had the following comments:-

    "the second link just boosted bottom end even more on mine, top end does not seem to have been effected."

    his bike was similar to mine but with 54mm TBs and he seems quite clued up.
    if i could get a nice bump in the mid range then this would be worthwhile, i guess that gains would be a little less than a decent 2 into 2 system.

    keep me posted on your plans and maybe we could arrange something
    cheers

  6. #26
    redratbike
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by aPeMunky View Post
    yep i've had a good nosy around there
    there is the odd dyno chart but it is mixed in with other mods so it's hard to get a before 'n' after comparison, but the gains looked good and filled the 5000rpm dip.

    with forums it's often difficult to get specific answers to questions, i've been reading loads of posts and get contradicting information but the general jist is that the front pipe makes most difference although the 2nd rear pipe adds to the improvement

    i asked on AF1 about the 2nd pipe and had the following comments:-

    "the second link just boosted bottom end even more on mine, top end does not seem to have been effected."

    his bike was similar to mine but with 54mm TBs and he seems quite clued up.
    if i could get a nice bump in the mid range then this would be worthwhile, i guess that gains would be a little less than a decent 2 into 2 system.

    keep me posted on your plans and maybe we could arrange something
    cheers
    I should have a jig made up in about 2 weeks, i'm chatting to the welder to make sure its easy for him to work round...i was talking about doing this back in the spring and have been lazy but now the winters here going to push myself to get things moving again..

  7. #27
    _James_
    Guest
    I am another interested for sure, as ideally I would like a 2 - 2 system but finding a decent 2nd hand one at a price I can swallow is difficult. Whats the likely price for this on an exhange basis?

  8. #28
    redratbike
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by _James_ View Post
    I am another interested for sure, as ideally I would like a 2 - 2 system but finding a decent 2nd hand one at a price I can swallow is difficult. Whats the likely price for this on an exhange basis?
    not finalised the price yet but it will plus a surcharge so that when i recieve your headers back i refund you.....keeps you off the road for the minimum time...you could probably swap it over in just over an hour

  9. #29
    A303
    Guest
    Any progress?

  10. #30
    redratbike
    Guest
    jig prototype should be finished at the weekend...not pretty but functional...should have the first modified pipe completed end of next week all being well

  11. #31
    Evil Twin
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    279
    I'd be interested in this...

    I only live the other side of the tunnel so would happily drive over with my pipes. Just to clarify though, it won't affect top end will it?

    I used to ride a 600 so feel more comfortable in the upper rev ranges.

  12. #32
    redratbike
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by jon_melson View Post
    I'd be interested in this...

    I only live the other side of the tunnel so would happily drive over with my pipes. Just to clarify though, it won't affect top end will it?

    I used to ride a 600 so feel more comfortable in the upper rev ranges.
    the 2 mods are listed below..worth reading up on the AF1 forum for more info...judging by what these guys say it makes a real difference..the mods were originally designed to allow the single pipe racers in the aprilia cup keep tabs on the twin pipe racers without resorting to buying a full 2 into 2 system so in my opinion it would increase the power for sure

    Mod 1-
    The loop underneath, between the two downpipes.
    This will restore the midrange powerloss at 5,000rpm, that has been caused by use of non-original silencer.


    Mod 2-
    The balance pipe of the rear downpipe to exit pipe.
    This is designed to spread the width of power at the top end.
    Designed for race track use, well thatís the main benefit.

  13. #33
    Sensei
    Guest
    All the pipes I have done now with Mod 2 the rear link pipe have run poorly & neeeded afair bit of sorting to get to run cleanly , where as my front link pipe only didn't need any tuning , I believe it is because the rear link pipe has to shorter route allowing the gases a easyer path to travel & not taking full advantage of the total header length creating an inbalance in the gas flow between the front & rear cylinder . This is my view on it anyways & even tho this may be happening it is still posssible to tune the cylinders to cope , I think there is more benefit from the front link on it's own for street / strip use over the dual link system .

  14. #34
    aPeMunky
    Guest
    good advice sensei, after much reading i think i've decided to go with just the front pipe on a cost/ vfm basis. it's mainly a street bike and the last thing i want to do is cock up the drivability and spend more trying to sort that out.
    been there done that!

  15. #35
    redratbike
    Guest
    ok gents i'll just concentrate on the front link pipe..no point in the other link pipe if it upsets the bike that much..Typical ..welders gone sick so definately looking at next week to complete the first pipe..got another coming through the post so if that arrives in time i'll have 2 ready to go on an exchange basis as i've said before ...

  16. #36
    aPeMunky
    Guest
    good stuff, i'm still interested

    no rush, best to make sure that you are happy with the results first and that it doesn't need tweeking.
    Have you spoken with the welder regarding sensei's advice about using the recommended stainless tubing and technique with the argon purging?
    it's going to have to handle a lot of heat and needs to last.


    Abit of a heads up for all that are thinking of this mod , Firstly make sure you use the correct grade Stainless Steel tubing or it will crack !! 304 grade is the one to use as I have , second the link pipe shouldn't have to much misalinement or big gaps apart from helping welding it will save's it stressing from the heat , Agron gas purge the inside of the header while welding is a MUST or the weld will oxidise & crack very quickly . If you have a pusle High Feq tig unit then use this function as it keeps alot more heat away from the weld area . I used a 1-1/4 pipe with a wall thickness of 1.2mm

  17. #37
    mattblack
    Guest
    I'm liking the sound of this mod chaps. I would love a stubby two pipe system on my 01 RSVR, Can you imagine the noise, woo hoo.

  18. #38
    redratbike
    Guest
    [QUOTE=aPeMunky;119965]good stuff, i'm still interested

    no rush, best to make sure that you are happy with the results first and that it doesn't need tweeking.
    Have you spoken with the welder regarding sensei's advice about using the recommended stainless tubing and technique with the argon purging?
    it's going to have to handle a lot of heat and needs to last.

    yeah all good on that front ..the guy is coded and knows his stuff..has to send stuff off for destructive testing and x-rays etc...he likes a challenge..he even mentioned the argon purging before me

  19. #39
    A303
    Guest
    'Scuse my ignorance but is argon purging anything like colonic irrigation?

  20. #40
    redratbike
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by A303 View Post
    'Scuse my ignorance but is argon purging anything like colonic irrigation?
    just been reading some old threads on this here is some more info from the experts;



    the longer crossover pipe was to help with the returning exhaust pulses/waves and that it helped with the midrange dip around 5000rpm and made the bike pull more harder in the low/mid rev range. He explained that the rear header on these bikes is far to short and that the smaller crossover pipe into the collector helped to equalize it (rear header)with the front header and improve the flow of the whole exhaust system. I asked him would spending £1400 on an Akra 2-2 against this mod be more beneficial and he replyed "No Way". Himself and a few others worked on this mod from the beginning and he said that they where amazed at the performance gains it gave compared to standard and also how much it matched a full race system. It was made to offer a cheaper alternative to the guys who where racing Mille's at the time against buying a full Akra system. The only thing to note is that they where using a 70mm link pipe and 70mm end can which was being supplied through Aprilia at the time. He said this gave the system it's best performance. I told him I expected to use a 60mm link pipe and can and he replied that you would lose a few HP off the top end but that it would be a good compromise.
    ha ha thankfully no!

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