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Thread: Aprilia RSV factory 2004 project HELP NEEDED

  1. #1
    Baby Twin
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    Aprilia RSV factory 2004 project HELP NEEDED

    Hello all,
    First time poster so any help and advice would be greatly received. I have recently purchased a crashed Aprilia RSV Factory as a project to work on; this will be my second project but first Italy race bike.

    I have just finished returning the wiring harness to its original condition, fuel up and powered up (NEW BATTERY) but when I press the ignition button nothing happens, when I first turn on the ignition I get the normal display flash then the needle drop to the bottom and I get the warning triangle and oil and water. From the manual this is all correct, I have also run the EFI diag and that shows no error.

    The noises I get from turning the circuit on is a clicking noise from the front that then stops after a couple of seconds; I get no fuel pump primer noise, if I remove the tank and turn the circuit on again I get a one second fuel pump primer noise and then it stops.

    When I turn the circuit off I get another set of clicking noises from the front and the speedo needle tries to jump anticlockwise?

    I have started to check the voltages on the circuit and found that I always have 12v @ the starter relay which I am sure is wrong but donít know how to fix! I also have 12v @ the ignition which when the button is pressed disappears (guessing that is correct) but the voltage @ the ignition relay remains the same. Have bridged the connectors on the starter relay and the engine turns but will not start (probably due to a lack of fuel from pump).

    Have also checked the clutch switch works and that I have good continuity @ the injection relay, this is probably an easy fix but have been staring @ it and checking bits and piece for weeks now that my brain has turned to mush.

    Any help that I can get would be greatly appreciated.
    Russ

  2. #2
    Baby Twin bigbaz222's Avatar
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    Hi Russ if your bike is a 2nd generation bike try checking the canbus line connecter, its a white connector located behind the front left hand fairing near the frame! this caused me very similar problems on my 04 factory and a a good clean up of this connector cured it! My bike has gone now though as i was knocked off it by a hit and run, still recovering from the broken bones and will be at least november till i'm back in the saddle! not sure yet if i will get another rsv though!

  3. #3
    Baby Twin
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    Hi Bigbaz 2222 thanks for the reply, yep its the second gen which from the pics i have seen will eventually look great. Currently i'am missing most of the panels, subframe, seat etc etc. Not 100 percent sure which one the canbus is as the wiring diagram and service manual show no listing of this connector, so i guessed that is is the connector coming from the on/off switch. Which I have just checked, seems visually fine volts all seem to be in the right places (hope i have the right connector). Sorry to hear about your accident and I hope you get better soon.

  4. #4
    BRG
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbaz222 View Post
    ...if your bike is a 2nd generation bike ... the canbus line connecter [is]... a white connector located behind the front left hand fairing near the frame
    Sorry?

    The CAN bus goes through two wires between the ECU and the dash. The only connectors in this are:
    • The 41-pin 'B' connector to the ECU (under the seat) - pins 28 & 27.
    • The 20-pin white connector at the back of the dash - pins 11 & 12.
    The rest of it goes through the loom.

    There are a couple of connectors on the LHS - two (a 6-pin and a 3-pin) are to the LH handlebar switch; the other (black IIRC) is the 6-pin to the ignition switch. These have nothing to do with the CAN bus.

    BTW, the dash is mostly a target for the CAN packets. It is the source of only two: an odometer value (which is dash-specific) and a type identifier, which, because it is not an individual bike authentication packet, means that dashes can be swapped.

  5. #5
    Baby Twin
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    Hi BRG, thanks for the info. I believe its not a CAN-BUS issue as no EFI errors from the ECU, so more likely a hardware issue, have check the fuel pump and found no visual problem (gets voltage ok and relay works correctly). Could be the starter relay so will try and get hold of an R1 replacement and give that a go. Have also metered out the starter relay and found that it always has a 12v going in and coming out, if you close the ignition switch this doesn’t change (service manual not very helpful gives you know guide lines to what voltage you should get were and when).

  6. #6
    BRG
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    If you're working from the 'service manual', you probably won't find the information you need.

    For a GenII bike you really need the workshop manual - the last one I'm aware of was published in 2005. This doesn't replicate all of the detail given in the GenI workshop manual, so I'd recommend getting hold of that too (last published in 2002). And to top it all, the Mille Technical Training Course (published Jul 1999) gives useful insight into the design of the electrical system. It should go without saying that a lot of the material in the older documents is not longer current, but you'll have to guess which it is!

    FWIW, I've never been convinced that the starter solenoid/relay is an obvious culprit on these bikes (Japanese component - made by Denso). I would say the more likely fault is poor battery voltage (which itself might be the result of more expensive ills - usually the charging circuit) causing the solenoid not to latch properly.

  7. #7
    Baby Twin
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    Hiya, Thanks again for all the info will download the manuals and take a look. Have just finished modifying a R1 Starter relay, going to try that tomorrow to see if that works! Not sure if it is the charging circuit as you should be able to run the bike with the regulator disconnected to check the voltage coming out of the flywheel.

  8. #8
    Evil Twin mad biff's Avatar
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    sounds daft i know ,but are all the earth wires to the frame and engine all good ? any youve missed

  9. #9
    Baby Twin
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    All 4 earth connections are good and get good continuity with connections to earth. I have also just finished cleaning them with my Dremel (now spotless and polished). Have been reading up on the ignition trigger and is looks like I could have a bad logic circuit (ECU) will replace and see what happens.

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