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Thread: guide to buying a Millie

  1. #1
    Baby Twin
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    guide to buying a Millie

    Hi all
    i am looking to buy a Millie What should I look out for faults etc .

    looking at somthing from 1999 to 2002 have been riding a vtr firestorm for 5 years until a twat in a car reversed into it and sort of trashed it.
    all the best Neil

  2. #2
    GP Champ apostrophe's Avatar
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    Neil

    If you want a 1st Generation Mille then it's worth looking for a 2003 model. There were a number of worthwhile improvements (especially revised gearbox) made for the final batch of the old style RSV. If you fancy something a bit more special then have a look for a 2003 model RSVR (they were the first RSVs to have radial calipers).

    Whichever model you go for there are plenty of 'faults' that are well known, but on the plus side, on a bike of that age they may already have been sorted out.

    Rob

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    GP Champ apostrophe's Avatar
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    and i forgot...also the 2003 has a slimmer, prettier 'bottom' (tail end). imho

    Rob

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    Baby Twin
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    Thank you for that , i have read about the REG REC =battery probs , sprag clutch and starter soldnoid probs .
    funny the vtr has the same r r batt issues , fixed with yam parts. am i right that some yam parts fit and KTM ,ducati and bmw parts work for the sprag clutch

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    Baby Twin aitchbomb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtrballs View Post
    Thank you for that , i have read about the REG REC =battery probs , sprag clutch and starter soldnoid probs .
    funny the vtr has the same r r batt issues , fixed with yam parts. am i right that some yam parts fit and KTM ,ducati and bmw parts work for the sprag clutch
    I have heard that the sprag clutch from a BMW F650 is the same unit as the RSV at a drastically reduced price, anyone know if this is correct?

    And Rob is right, the 2003 model is the best, seems to be quite a few going on e-bay and autotrader.

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    One Liter Duc Eater SteveR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by apostrophe View Post
    and i forgot...also the 2003 has a slimmer, prettier 'bottom' (tail end). imho

    Rob
    I have to say I actually prefer the 02 rear end (thats why I got one instead of an 03) To each his own !

    I havent had one long, so cant say specifically what to look for on an inspection as such.
    But I`ll give you a list of things I`m addressing with mine now I`m sitting back and taking stock of it.

    Check what gearing it runs if the owner knows. (Mine had 1 extra tooth on the front sprocket to tame it for a previous female rider)

    I had bad juddering from the front brakes too, which (thanks to guys on here) turned out to be just the bobbins on the semi floating discs needed freeing up.
    (apparently very common on these)

    Check the clutch fluid reservoir, (again thanks to the guys on here..) If the clutch slave has been uprated it would seem that the fluid and reservoir should be relatively clear. If its got black funk in it and looks dirty, or is abit low, the seals may be on the way out (also common on these so it would seem)

    Not much help now, but stuff to check when you got one home
    All the best, they are wicked fun!

    (mines an 02 R by the way)

  7. #7
    pat
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    Quote Originally Posted by aitchbomb View Post
    I have heard that the sprag clutch from a BMW F650 is the same unit as the RSV at a drastically reduced price, anyone know if this is correct?

    And Rob is right, the 2003 model is the best, seems to be quite a few going on e-bay and autotrader.
    Yip,the bmw sprag works well,its the garter spring that gets stretched,you can replace them for a few quid...

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    One Liter Duc Eater SteveR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pat View Post
    Yip,the bmw sprag works well,its the garter spring that gets stretched,you can replace them for a few quid...
    So do you replace it as a preventative measure pat?
    Planning on taking mine to south of france next year, could do without the start up lottery!

  9. #9
    Evil Twin RSV Stupid!'s Avatar
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    Youre correct the BMW sprag does fit. I have upgraded my YTX 12 battery to a YTX 14, better turn over and vastly reduces the risk of kick back and sprag faliure for 50. The back does not work on them so when you go looking dont let this put you off it is just a case of bleeding which is easy little job. I have had no issues with my 02 at all. It starts on the button and rides fantastic. I changed the plugs, oil, filters when i first got it and away it goes. You need to warm the bike up in order to check the oil. To be honest, just look for one that looks like its true and not hiding anything. Most have been the wrong side of a hedge at some point in their life. Dont be put off by horror stories about maintanence buddy. You get alot of bike for money ant TBH my R6 was much more unreliable. Cheers Jonny

  10. #10
    Baby Twin
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    Thanks all i have changed the batt in the vtr to the same one works great along with a r1 RR .im i right that the r1 reg works on the mille and whats the thing about the brown conecter

  11. #11
    pat
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveR View Post
    So do you replace it as a preventative measure pat?
    Planning on taking mine to south of france next year, could do without the start up lottery!
    you dont need to change the garter spring,as a preventative measure,I learned after I bought a new sprag and housing that it was just the garter spring
    that stretched ,a set of different sized garter springs cost about a tenner,so now I have a complete sprag as a spare,

  12. #12
    GP Champ apostrophe's Avatar
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    Anyone mentioned the clutch jet yet? It's pretty much impossible to select neutral with the standard one. Fit a .40 clutch oil jet and neutral will be yours when you want it.

    The standard sidestand is notoriously bad, resulting in the bike falling over. There are a number of possible fixes for this.

    Rob

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    One Liter Duc Eater SteveR's Avatar
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    Pat - I ment replacing the part for the BMW one as a preventative measure??
    Or can you just uprate the spring? I just wanna avoid having an issue thousands of miles away from home!

    Rob - Its funny I keep hearing about the stand, but I`v actually always thought it was pretty good, the bike dont seem too upright, or too lent over...
    It is abit of a pain to get to to flick out though..

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    GP Champ apostrophe's Avatar
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    You may be right Steve. My Mille was sold to me with a ready modded stand. It works fine and flips out fine but I've never had a Mille with the standard sidestand.

    Rob

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    Superbike Twin
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveR View Post
    It is abit of a pain to get to to flick out though..
    My problem too, spesh when the blood is pumping

    Back to the topic, the best way i found when looking at bikes is to search through the postings.

    These bikes have some issues but TBH i have done over 60k on mille's and not really had much trouble at all, prevention is the key i reckon.

    Don't start them with throttle or the sprag will say goodnight, battery........fit a YTZ14S BS and an uprated solenoid.

    Fit a 40 jet, fit an aftermarket clutch slave cylinder.

    Fit 15/40 to 43 gearing for road use 15/45 for most tracks

    Great bikes with character, not the fastest by any means but from A to B it may well be there first

    BTW there is no point in buying a coloured one as they are all dead slow, black is the fastest full stop.

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    One Liter Duc Eater SteveR's Avatar
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    What year is yours badger? cant wait to down gear mine, think its on 17/42!
    Need 4th to sit at 70 bloody madness! In 6th 70 is just over 3k! 90 is only 5k! It must be geared for 195 lol

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    Superbike Twin
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveR View Post
    What year is yours badger? cant wait to down gear mine, think its on 17/42!
    Need 4th to sit at 70 bloody madness! In 6th 70 is just over 3k! 90 is only 5k! It must be geared for 195 lol
    This is my bad boy running on 15/43 and tops out at 171 with that gearing, pulls like a feckin train with the mods done to it, 17/42 is standard on your bike, stick a 15 on the front and not a 16.






    Full Smaltmoto system with ceramic headers
    Homer Ewe airbox
    K&N filter
    Remote adjustable Ohlins shock which is revalved
    Forks have 25mm s/bike kits and revalved with better compression adjusters
    polished top yoke
    MRA D/B screen
    15/43 gearing with supersprox on rear
    Polidom c/f frame and swingarm protectors
    Carbon fibre toeguard, engine casing cover, chainguard, sprocket cover, rear seat pod
    MPL frame plugs
    R&G bar ends
    Evo clutch slave cylinder
    Hafer folding brake and clutch levers
    Lightech fuel cap
    Alloy preload adjusters on fork caps
    Gilles fully adjustable rearsets
    Gilles paddock stand lifters
    Gilles chain adjusters
    Bubseywoos mirror extenders
    PC111 and custom mapped
    Oberon Ti finish front and rear brake/clutch reservoir caps
    Lower fairings painted in gloss black with C/F Aprilia decal to match the rest of bike
    Black anodised stronger suspension link plates

  18. #18
    One Liter Duc Eater SteveR's Avatar
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    Alright buddy! asked what year, not your bleeding life story



    Just kiddin!
    Thats a pretty pimpin ride!

    Would 15 be abit much on my bike?? I dont want really short gears.
    Would I have to take any links out of the chain running 15/42?

  19. #19
    One Liter Duc Eater SteveR's Avatar
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    Just run it though a cool site that wolf showed me. If I put a 15 front on mine (any gen1) with the 42 rear, it would equate to 1st-55mph 2nd-79mph 3rd-102mph 4th-127mph 5th-145mph 6th-163mph and to cruise at 70 in top it will sit at 4380rpm. Clever stuff aye

    If I go with the 16 it will max out at 174mph

  20. #20
    One Liter Duc Eater apriliamoto's Avatar
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    Steve, I might have a Renthal 16t ill probably be getting shot of soon. Im close to de-modding my bike and selling up. Was bought new and ran for about 500 mile.

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