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Thread: Rear brake

  1. #1
    Superbike Twin floakey's Avatar
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    Rear brake

    Just looking through some old threads and wondered if anyone has used one griffs heatsheilds with any effect ? . Also thinking of added sheilding of some sort you can . Actually bled the brake and it worked , for about a week and half and after my trip up Scotland and back it was back to its usual nonesense .

  2. #2
    GP Champ apostrophe's Avatar
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    The heatshield approach is cheap but I've not seen anyone saying it makes a lot of difference. Did you see the thread a few weeks ago where nikfubar was talking about using the shiver rear m/c? Otherwise you'll have to invest in fancy rearsets to relocate the standard m/c.

    Rob

  3. #3
    Evil Twin Tifa's Avatar
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    Forget heat shields & high temp racing fluids (been there, done that)...It's nothing to do with heat.
    It's pretty much agreed these days that the problem is caused by cavitation. (high frequency vibes off the engine, cause a separation of fluid/air bubbles) Think of a propeller on a speedboat...it's under water...yet when it spins up, it creates an air pocket behind the blade...this happens exactly the same even if that propeller is under 20 ft of water...same thing happens in a kitchen liquidiser...
    No two bikes resonate (vibrate) the same..that's why some bikes are affected by 'dead brake' and others are not.
    If you are one of the unlucky 55% then your only permanent fix is to relocate that slave cyl off the engine, and on to some rearsets as apostrophe has said.
    Try this as a quick temporary overnight fix though.... hang a 5 kg weight off the brake pedal, I promise you, your brake will be perfect in the morning...but it will 'go off' again after 150 miles or so.

  4. #4
    Superbike Twin floakey's Avatar
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    If I can find a cheap shiver rear m/c , I'll give that a go first then as I'm reluctant the spend 250 squid on rear sets etc . I know most people dont use it but when it did work it came in handy .

  5. #5
    Evil Twin Tifa's Avatar
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    A working rear brake is a lovely thing to behold...

  6. #6
    GP Champ apostrophe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by floakey View Post
    If I can find a cheap shiver rear m/c , I'll give that a go first then as I'm reluctant the spend 250 squid on rear sets etc . I know most people dont use it but when it did work it came in handy .
    I saw a Shiver m/c complete on on fleabay a couple of weeks ago that was not ended and was already about 80. Alternative is some cheap far-east type rearsets (danmoto). Some have said they are good enough at about 115 delivered for a set.

    Rob

  7. #7
    One Liter Duc Eater nikfubar's Avatar
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  8. #8
    Superbike Twin leenineplus's Avatar
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    How does the Shiver rear brake system fit to the rsv1000r though. Is it a bolt on or any mods involved please?

  9. #9
    One Liter Duc Eater nikfubar's Avatar
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    No modifications required it's a direct replacement, you just need to cut down the reservoir hose to suit.





    My rear brake never worked very well with the brembo Master cylinder but I fitted the Shiver one a couple of years ago & never touched it since & it still works great My local Aprilia dealer fits these to all his bikes before he sells them as a standard modification.
    Last edited by nikfubar; November 18th, 2013 at 01:15 PM.

  10. #10
    Superbike Twin leenineplus's Avatar
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    Mmmm. Wonder why this works and the Brembo does not! I just want to be able to touch the back brake and it locks up ! As it should.

  11. #11
    Superbike Twin leenineplus's Avatar
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    Did you fit a Wemoto new one or a second hand aprilia shiver one?

  12. #12
    One Liter Duc Eater nikfubar's Avatar
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    It was a second hand shiver one I fitted & I've been told the reason it works better is because of the larger reservoir & inlet diameter

  13. #13
    Superbike Twin leenineplus's Avatar
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    Excellent, there is one on ebay now for 49. Or a new wemoto one for sixty. Thanks.

  14. #14
    Superbike Twin leenineplus's Avatar
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    Saves buying new rear sets too. Lol.

  15. #15
    Superbike Twin leenineplus's Avatar
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    Ordered. That's a new stator to fit, alternator, starter relay too. Hopefully all my problems will be solved then! Last year it was a battery, new Ohlins fork leg base and new fork seals!!

    In 26 years of riding bikes approx 18 of them, this has been the worst for reliability. Its only done 14k, 06 model.

  16. #16
    One Liter Duc Eater nikfubar's Avatar
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    Reliability problems may be due to previous owners bad maintenance when I got mine it was 6 months old & had done 500 miles, I've owned it for 8 1/2 years & it's never broken down & the only thing that's ever gone wrong is a weeping fork seal & that was because the mechanic didn't install the front wheel properly after replacing the tyres.

  17. #17
    Superbike Twin leenineplus's Avatar
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    Oh yes, just bought a new DID chain, renthal front and rear gold Talon sprocket also ready to fit at some point. I am also going to fit Pilot 3 road tyres soon. Once sorted, I plan to keep for a few years then get the RSV4 when they come down more in price!

  18. #18
    Superbike Twin leenineplus's Avatar
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    All fitted. Stator, Ricks rectifier, Shiver rear brake system. Maybe all my problems may be resolved. Time will tell.

  19. #19
    Superbike Twin leenineplus's Avatar
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    Shiver brake does not work, fitted. It bleeds through but will not pressurise. Faulty cylinder? The push rod with the shiver is too long to. I just pulled that out and fitted the shorter RSVR one. Also you Shiver hose fits on the side. Mine is on the other side! Any suggestions please?

  20. #20
    Evil Twin Tifa's Avatar
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    Sounds as if you still have air trapped in the system.
    You ARE taking the slave off to bleed it?

    Not sure what you mean about hose on the wrong side.
    Can you post up a pic to give us a better idea?

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