Results 1 to 19 of 19

Thread: 04 RSVR won't idle below 2,000 rpm

  1. #1
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Maryland, USA
    Posts
    9

    04 RSVR won't idle below 2,000 rpm

    Hello, I had hoped my first post wouldn't be trouble related but unfortunately my just purchased RSV won't idle below 2,000 rpm. I just picked the bike up yesterday and it stalled out as I was leaving the shop where I bought it. I started it again, rode a few feet, and it was sputtering and trying to die. I turned the bike off and started it again and the problem seemed to go away so I rode home for 45 minutes with no issues so I didn't think much of it. Later on that day I took the bike out and it ran fine, then after about 30 minutes of riding it would barely run below 2,000 rpm and would stall at idle.

    It is a 2004 RSVR with 6400 miles on it. When I lifted the tank and opened/loosened the airbox, it appears that nothing as been touched since the factory and all factory screws that were marked still have the factory marking intact.

    After looking through the forums, I have tried the following:
    * Removed and cleaned the IAC solenoid and check for functioning. It powers up and moves when the bike it powered on.
    * To eliminate the possibility of anything IAC related, I disconnected the IAC bypass hoses and ran the bike with different diameters of vacuum tubing inserted to set the idle. Same result, won't idle below 2,000 rpm.
    * Drained tank and filled with 2 gallons of fresh gas. No change.
    * Vacuum hoses seem to be connected with no breaks or kinks.
    * Unplugged the TPS connector and inspected - connections look fine.
    * Checked EFI self diagnostic via self check on gauge cluster and it returns a code of "0".
    * EFI indicator/CEL only came on once after I first discovered the issue and hasn't returned.
    * Bike is charging with ~13.8v at idle - 3,000 rpm. I charged the battery overnight just eliminate battery voltage from being a possibility.
    * Disconnected the battery for 30 seconds to try to clear any faulty settings the ECU may have learned and performed key/memory procedure after re-connecting
    * Checked and cleaned spark plugs

    I don't think it's fuel supply (volume/pressure) related because the bike runs fine above 2,000 rpm and cruises/accelerates just fine.

    TPS? I've also read about the trim adjusters in the ECU.

    Thanks,

    Jesse
    Last edited by benton0311; February 21st, 2016 at 01:43 PM.

  2. #2
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Winchester UK
    Posts
    91
    Hi, when you say it won't idle is it running on one Clynder also miss firing
    If yes check or change sparkplug caps I had something similar you can get the caps on eBay or swap with some that will fit temporarily to eliminate, hope it helps

  3. #3
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Maryland, USA
    Posts
    9
    I'm pretty sure both cylinders are firing although I wouldn't rule out spark plug caps. It doesn't sound like one cylinder is firing when it sputters out, it sounds like both are sputtering and I'm not smelling unburnt fuel when it does. I was originally thinking if spark was bad then high RPM spark would be bad as well (like when you open the throttle off idle then it would misfire). I'll investigate the spark plug caps further.

    I talked to a bike mechanic in passing today and he mentioned sometimes a bad R/R can cause idle issues. I considered that but I seem to be getting decent (if not ideal) idle voltage at 13.8v as measured with a volt meter on the battery terminals.

    Thanks

    Edit: I also accidentally left the MAP sensor unplugged this last time I started it up and it made no difference to the idle condition.

  4. #4
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Maryland, USA
    Posts
    9
    Well, as luck would have it I fired the bike up to take another look before checking out the coil pack. Right after I shut it down I pulled the idle bypass tubes to gain clearance to access to coil pack and noticed fuel and air vapor coming from the tube to the rear cylinder - makes me think that one isn't getting adequate spark at idle.

  5. #5
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    GR
    Posts
    32
    Firstly you have to check the ECU for any problems, secondly you have to check the fumes, and thirdly let it warm up to 55 ceslium and see if it idles below 2000 rpm, then take it for a ride and check it.

  6. #6
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Maryland, USA
    Posts
    9
    I think dog78 may be on to something with the bad coil. I unbolted the coil pack to take a look at it and started the bike again. I moved the coils a little and the bike started to idle better. I moved them again and it stalled right out. I fired it up one more time, moved the coils and it stalled out. Since moving the coil pack had a direct effect on the ignition, I have to think that has something to do with it. The only thing I can't understand if this is the case is why a faulty coil would only cause problems below 2,000 rpm. In my past dealings with coils it's usually the opposite - engine runs fine down low but the ignition struggles to keep up at higher rpms and load. I ordered a replacement coil pack which should be here on Wednesday so I'll give that a try along with fresh plugs.

    tedyboy, I checked the ECU via the gauge cluster diagnostic and only got a code of "0". I don't have access to a CO monitor to check the fumes but I do have a wideband O2 meter - I just need to figure out a way to plug the second O2 into the exhaust pre-catalyst. Coolant temperature seems to have no effect on the idle (misfire?) situation - cold or hot it acts the same way.

  7. #7
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    GR
    Posts
    32
    Could you please upload some photos of the coils? It would be very helpful for others.

  8. #8
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Maryland, USA
    Posts
    9
    I took a photo of the coils but I can't access photobucket from work - I'll get the pic up tonight. There's not much to see though, they look like a normal Bosch twin coil pack and, unless there is a catastrophic failure due to heat, etc., failed coils will look just like new ones. I tried to measure the resistance but my voltage meter has been acting up and won't measure resistance for some reason.

    The Aprilia coil pack is a Bosch 221 503 037. I ordered the Bosch 221 503 035 which appears identical and I can't source the 221 503 037 coil pack in the U.S. (the 035 is available everywhere since it was a common Mercedes coil).

  9. #9
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Winchester UK
    Posts
    91
    Hi benton, ignition is quite a funny thing , in my case under 4000 revs it was terrible but above that it was fine
    Remember when you moved the coil pack you was probably moving HT lead and sparkplug caps.
    I would gone the other way and replaced the caps first, they are not the best design. I have had somebody else on here who had a similar problem and he used a FS1E cap ad a donor and it sorted out. Spark is crucial at any revs, the coil pack has still got to get the power to the plug.
    Try another set of caps and see how you get on, and it always breakdown at lower revs with bad connections like caps.
    If you are going to put a new coil pack you might as well change the caps and leads.Sorry if it all comes with it.
    Let us know how you get on.

  10. #10
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Maryland, USA
    Posts
    9
    dog78, thanks for the info! I might see if I can source some entirely new spark plug wires/caps, etc. locally. The wires/caps on my bike, which I assume are OEM, are made by NGK. Does anyone know the part number by chance? I think I have a few local options - there's a Polaris/KTM dealer nearby which obviously deals with a variety of Rotax engines.

  11. #11
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Winchester UK
    Posts
    91
    The numbers are on the caps you can get them on eBay. Unfortunately my previous phone gave up so I lost the information but if you can look at my previous posts you will see them on there with the screenshot with the eBay number.
    Good luck I am sure you will sort it

  12. #12
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Maryland, USA
    Posts
    9
    Question: Is the resistor in the spark plug cap required? I can't find much on it but there was one post where someone mentioned it was redundant with a resistor type spark plug. I'm not worried about low level EM interference but wondering if it is safe for the ECU and coils. I can easily come up with a nice set of MSD wires with quality caps, etc. from the local auto parts store but the resistor type is more difficult to source locally. I'm also wondering if that additional resistor and mounting serves as a point of failure in the OEM cap design.
    Last edited by benton0311; February 25th, 2016 at 12:09 PM.

  13. #13
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Winchester UK
    Posts
    91
    I will send you this if I can eBay no 321847019765 and some screenshots as much I did not want to use these original ones I did because how deep the plugs were and these are the original. You may as well fit these you may be able to find them in the US now you got the information
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #14
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Winchester UK
    Posts
    91
    Hi benton, I would also like to add even when they are new I personally think bad fit I will be changing mine to the thread type if I can get something suitable as I don't run standard plugs I can get them in both types. I run a pcv with Autotune AT 300 with Brisk sparkplugs. I would use the non resistor ones just to check out and then put back in new original type,the info is all there on the eBay number I gave you that company is based over here.
    I also have heard the throttle body balance can make a difference but let's eliminate the spark first.
    Have look inside the old plug cap when you take it off the bike also don't always assume that a sparkplug that runs OK at high revs isn't breaking down at idle.
    It's happened to me even after cleaning only one plug worked properly although they were bought and installed at the same time. I would start at replacing plug and caps and work backwards from that.

  15. #15
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Maryland, USA
    Posts
    9
    Fixed it! Brand new plug wires. As I was removing the rear plug wire, the cylinder I suspected of no spark, the plug cap fell right off with maybe 2 lbs of force so I'm sure it was only barely making a connection. Unfortunately, the HT leads got stuck on the new coil pack I purchased so I ended up needing both new wires and caps. There were plenty of plug wire kits available locally but none of them designed for distributorless ignition coil packs, all had leads and crimp terminals for distributors. There is an Aprilia parts distributor about 3 hours drive from me so I was prepping to have to make the drive tomorrow since the local dealer didn't have the HT leads in stock. I could easily source the wires and caps from AF1 racing but I'd be looking at a week for them to arrive and I'll be traveling on business next week.

    So I made a trip to the local Harley dealer with my old broken wires and asked if they had anything similar. It turns out that some of the Harley Davidson wires designed for their distributorless ignitions mount right up and work like a charm (part #31992-99B). The long wire is the same length as the OEM long wire but the short one is a little shorter so I picked up two long ones. The best part, they only cost $6.36 each.

    I let the bike idle and revved it intermittently for about 15 minutes and so far so good. It's a little late and cold to take it out for a ride tonight but I'll update this weekend on how they're running.

    dog78, thanks so much for pointing me in the direction of the ignition cable! I would have taken me forever to finally track down such a simple fix without your advice.

  16. #16
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Winchester UK
    Posts
    91
    You are very welcome Jesse, I hope it's alright now and give us an update after your ride.

  17. #17
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Maryland, USA
    Posts
    9
    Took it out for an hour today and it seems to be running great! I definitely must have restored some power as well since it has a lot more pull than when I rode it the first day I picked it up. I kept pulling the front tire off the ground today trying to get reacquainted with the throttle.

  18. #18
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Winchester UK
    Posts
    91
    Sounds like it's running like it should be, enjoy your bike, pm sent

  19. #19
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Winchester UK
    Posts
    91
    Thanks benton for your pm and offer for help should I need it.
    A steering damper is essential, mine is a factory 05 so it has one.
    But if did not I don't think I would be writing this now I had the same situation it would not been the same outcome without the damper.
    Cheers Richard

Similar Discussions

  1. Idle on one cylinder?
    By gusmacneil in forum Aprilia RSV Mille
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: January 24th, 2016, 01:04 AM
  2. 06 Factory won't idle
    By Lag Junkie in forum Aprilia RSVR
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: June 10th, 2011, 03:09 PM
  3. Idle Adjustment
    By jennozx10r in forum Aprilia RSVR
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: August 18th, 2009, 02:27 AM
  4. 2k idle?
    By yorksrsvr in forum Aprilia RSVR
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: April 27th, 2009, 03:23 AM
  5. Bike Won't Idle
    By jadilla in forum Aprilia RSVR
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: March 28th, 2009, 03:36 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •