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Thread: RSV 1000R Factory

  1. #1
    Baby Twin Clinton's Avatar
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    RSV 1000R Factory

    Hi Guys

    I am new to the group and have always had a love for the Italian Ladies
    I owned a Ducati 748 Biposta before I bought the Aprilia in April this year.

    But my love was short lived when only after about 250km the gearbox packed up. (Busy with a CPA Claim against Dyna by Quint, the bike shop I bought the bike from)
    I had Remi from Remi tech fix the bike for me. Had to replace both shafts (slightly bent) in gearbox and 2nd and 5th gear which were badly worn. Cost me a small fortune but got bike back and was running fine until Wednesday when she started giving me issues.


    I was riding normally like I always do when she started spluttering and surging all of a sudden as if she was running out of fuel.
    I carried on riding thinking she will come right, but it just kept on spluttering and surging.
    The Red Warning Triangle and EFI lights came on and I pulled in the clutch and pulled over switching the bike off.
    Gave her a minute or two and started her up again and it was fine again until I pulled off again. The same happened again.
    I then turned around and tried to ride her back home as I wasn't to far from there, but she kept on sputtering and surging.
    I then tried to pull her out of that state on the straight by dragging the clutch a bit and elevating the revs above 3000/3500rpm and she started pulling fine again, but was feeling a bit of restriction on the torque but no spluttering or surging. The surging only happened below 4000rpm.

    I am wondering if any of you have had a similar problem and how it was resolved.
    I tried running the error code but it doesn't show anything. I have noticed my voltage reading while bike is on is only 11.7v while revving the bike at about 4000rpm, which is very low.

    Any thoughts?

    Much appreciated guys
    Last edited by Clinton; December 28th, 2018 at 05:41 AM.

  2. #2
    Baby Twin
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    Hi Clinton,

    Regardless of what else might be happening, you most definitely have a failure in the casting system with 11.7v at 4k. I suggest you check each output from the stator for voltage, your looking for something in the region of 60v at 4k. At 11.7 all kinds of strange things will happen including what you described.

    There are a zillion posts about stator failure on the forums, and some people have modified the charging system, others have fitted the newer stator and rotor combo, and still others have fitted a new stator only, all with varying degrees of success. Good luck

    Ian

  3. #3
    Baby Twin Clinton's Avatar
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    Hi Ian

    Thanks for the reply message.

    The bike is going back to Remitech next week to sort out. I was just hoping it was something small and common which I could quickly resolve, but by the sound of it I'd rather leave it in his hands to resolve.

    Much appreciated and have a great New Year.

  4. #4
    Baby Twin
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    Hi Clinton,

    I should add that my message did assume that all cables are in good condition and well connected, and the battery is in good shape.

    Regards
    Ian

  5. #5
    Baby Twin Clinton's Avatar
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    Hi Ian

    Yes thanks I gathered that. Brown connector issue to be checked. Measure Volts on wires at connector, must be about 60v on all three points also check earth wires and battery terminals and battery condition. I will do that over the weekend, but have a feeling its the rec/reg which went. I will stick the battery on the trickle charger tonight and she what she does in the morning.

    Thanks bud

  6. #6
    Baby Twin Clinton's Avatar
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    Hi Ian

    Tried to start her but battery was dead. So I charged battery and tried to switch her on today but clocks are blank. You can hear the fuel pump kick in but no power on cluster.
    I noticed the 30amp fuse on top of the white and red wire above the battery blew. I replaced it and blew straight away without even starting the bike.

    Looks like a dead short to me somwhere, but I can't see burnt wires or plugs. Any idea what it could be?

    Thanks

  7. #7
    Baby Twin
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    Hi Clinton,

    Without taking a multimeter to it I couldn't be sure, but I'd start checking for zero ohms where it shouldn't be, like on the DC side of the rectifier checking both directions, but also chasing the main feed back from the battery as it may have fouled the chassis somewhere.
    Just to be sure, without connecting the battery do you get zero ohms between the positive lead and ground with the ignition off? What about with it on? Both directions? Normally the rectifier will have a vastly different resistance when measured in the forward versus the reverse direction. It has to be a significant current draw to blow that fuse. The stator wouldn't do that as it's circuit is isolated from the DC side by the rectifier. The wiring diagrams from the manuals may help.

    Regards
    Ianhttp://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5c28ff63...r%20Manual.pdfhttp://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5c28fff4...p%20Manual.pdf

  8. #8
    Baby Twin Clinton's Avatar
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    Hi Ian

    Thanks I will do that later today and see what's cooking. I just don't understand as the bike isn't even switch on when it blows the fuses. I think somewhere there is a dead short causing the fuse to blow.

    Thank you

  9. #9
    Baby Twin Clinton's Avatar
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    Hi Ian

    Ok bike went in to Remitech (who is our Italian Bike Specialist in town) yesterday. Picked up that the stator was shot and caused the short in the electrics. Only putting out 24v/25v/1.5v on the 3 wires. I google and saw that this is a common problem with the Aprilia RSV1000R bikes. 500W stator and reg/rectifier too small to dissipate all the heat/energy which is being produced by the stator, causes the electrics to fry. I'm having the stator coil recoiled and hope it will last as I see some people recon rewinding the stator won't last.
    There seems to be a few people who have come up with solutions to the problem from fitting a bigger reg/rectifier to installing a cooling system for the stator.

    What are your thoughts?

    I see on T12-Tech there is a conversion you can do to cool the stator. Perhaps worth the try?

    Thanks

    Regards
    Clinton

  10. #10
    Baby Twin
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    Hi Clinton,

    That's interesting, I know of the issue as I've had it myself but I would not have thought a short in the stator would affect the DC side too. Live and learn. In my case I read for many hours about the problem before deciding on the course of action, which has worked very well for me, with great voltage at the battery and no blackening of the oil due to overheating of the stator. Unfortunately stator failure is a feature of the bike, and if it happens, will keep happing until some action is taken other than simply replacing the stator.

    There are 2 main courses of action

    1. Fit the modified stator and rotor. This succeeds because it reduces the wastage of the combination, and I think it's due to the modified rotor. Did not always work though, for the same reason that the original didn't always fail. Quality control.
    2. Modify the original system. Fit a linear rectifier, and stator cooler like the one you mentioned. I did this, but I also relocated the rectifier to underneath the rear cowl. I used heavy duty Delphi connectors and soldered the wires too. Been great ever since.

    Regards
    Ian
    Last edited by Duggers; January 3rd, 2019 at 01:38 AM.

  11. #11
    Baby Twin Clinton's Avatar
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    Hi Ian

    Thanks for the advise I will chat to my mechanic and see what rabbit he can pull out of the hat for me.

    Much appreciated

    Regards
    Clinton

  12. #12
    Baby Twin
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    Hi Clinton,

    If you're having someone else do all the work is suggest the modified rotor. The route I took would cost you an arm and a leg in Labour.

    Regards
    Ian

  13. #13
    Baby Twin Clinton's Avatar
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    Hi Ian

    Got bike back and the stator has been recoiled and they fitted a bigger rectifier/regulator 35amp from an R1. So I'm holding thumbs now to see if it will last?
    The dash shows between 13.2 and 13.9 volts when the bike is running. I measured the battery volts when bike is off (12.6V) and when bike is running (14.1V) on the battery itself. Does it sound about right?

    Thanks for all your help

    Regards
    Clinton

  14. #14
    Baby Twin
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    Hi Clinton,

    The voltage sounds spot on, I don't know the details of the R1 regulator though. I don't think the size of the rectifier was the issue but I'm willing to be schooled in the matter. I hope it works for you!

    Ian

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