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Thread: Clutch slip

  1. #1
    AMA Pit Boss AREESSMILL's Avatar
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    Clutch slip

    Before i changed the oil i was having mild clutch slip perhaps 2 or 3 times per 300km, I have now changed the oil to 15/50 and the clutch slip is getting worse, I have adjusted the clutch actuating rod by unscrewing it thus allowing the rod not to push into the MC housing , and it still slips like a bitch.

    So the next question is im gonna have to do a Clutch plate change.

    Q

    1 do i have to drain all the nice clean expensive oil out of the engine to do this?
    2 do i need to just buy some clutch plates??
    3 Or is it just a question of taking them out and roughening them up a bit??

    Thanks

    Tim

  2. #2
    Mick Oliver
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    First thing is was it proper bike oil and not car oil as car oil will make the clutch slip because of the lubricant in it as cars do not run awet clutch.
    You can take the plates out and rough them up but it might be week springs
    or blued up steel drive plates
    or the corks have worn out
    The oil is the most likely
    Springs are a lot cheaper than plates

  3. #3
    AMA Pit Boss AREESSMILL's Avatar
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    I used Motorex of Switzerland 15/50 semi bike oil, top quality stuff.

    The clutch was starting to slip already before the oil change.

    Im gonna oder some new plates and springs the bike has done 43000km so its about time plus im off to the TT in June, so i dont want to be in the shit.

  4. #4
    Mick Oliver
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    Sounds like its about time for a clutch

  5. #5
    Superbike Twin Booleyblade's Avatar
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    is that the same oil that was in before the change, i read a thread on Af1 site that said if it has fully synthetic oil in and you put semi in on the change(or vice versa) this can cause the clutch to slip due to the plates being contaminated and with the change in viscosity or something it causes problems, just trying to help so if the thread was wrong don't shoot me!

    cheers

    Dave

  6. #6
    Beanie
    Guest
    If you want to test whats what, then you can take the plates out and clean them up slightly using sandpaper, then use a set of vernier calipers to test there in tolerance.

    To test the springs, just undo the bolts securing the clutch assembly and put a 1mm penny washer between the basket and bolt head.

    Put it back together and roadtest to see if it improves it.

    Other thing is, does it only happen when the engine is still warming up, ie under 10km's, whilst the oil is still quite thick.

  7. #7
    AMA Pit Boss AREESSMILL's Avatar
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    Ive ordered a new clutch plates and springs, knowing my luck it will be the steel plates that are shagged.

    will need to drain all the oil out now ffs

  8. #8
    AMA Pit Boss Sprocker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AREESSMILL View Post
    Ive ordered a new clutch plates and springs, knowing my luck it will be the steel plates that are shagged.

    will need to drain all the oil out now ffs
    Keep the bike on it's side stand and you don't have to drain the oil

    I had the same problem after an oil change, so i roughed up the plates, checked tolerances were ok with calipers, and it all seems to be working ok now .....for now

  9. #9
    One Liter Duc Eater cheesy's Avatar
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    on my old engine my clutch started to slip in the high rpms

    i fitted 3x1mm washers and cured it a treat


    you don't have to drop oil if you do it with bike on sidestand

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